group of 25 hard-core New York history buffs
gathered early yesterday afternoon on a gusty corner in South Jamaica,
Queens, provoking curious glances from passers-by. They were there in
anticipation of a rare glimpse of one of the city's most legendary and
seldom-seen landmarks: Prospect Cemetery. Established in 1668, it now sits
decayed behind locked gates just south of the Long Island Rail Road
tracks, unknown to all but a small group of the city's historically minded
cognoscenti.
Their leader was Kevin Walsh, a man with unkempt graying hair and
blue-tinted wire frame glasses who runs a Web site called Forgotten New
York (forgotten-ny.com) and has become a kind of cult figure among those
who take local lore seriously. He looks like a cross between an Ivy League
history professor and a longshoreman. A 46-year-old Brooklyn-born
advertising copywriter, he has organized two or three free tours a year
for his fans since 1999.
As the appointed hour approached, Mr. Walsh led the group out of the
cold wind and into the cavernous subway station at the corner of Jamaica
Avenue and Parsons Boulevard for a brief introductory lecture.
"Jamaica is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Queens," he began,
speaking loud enough to be heard over the roar of the E and J trains. "The
Dutch left in 1656, and then the English settled here along Beaver Pond
Road."
The group included several of Mr. Walsh's most dedicated fans,
including some who have set up their own local history sites. At one
point, Mr. Walsh pointed them out and acknowledged them: John Leita, who
runs a Web site called Long Island Oddities; Jeff Saltzman, who runs a
site about street lamps; and Mike Epstein, who runs an old New York
photography site.
"We're a real subculture," said Mr. Leita, a heavyset man with unruly
black hair and a large beard. "You meet some interesting people."
Emerging from the subway, Mr. Walsh led the group east past the
fast-food restaurants of Jamaica Avenue and then south beneath the tracks.
They entered a building belonging to York College, which obscures Prospect
Cemetery from view for any passers-by.
There they were met by the president of the Prospect Cemetery
Association, Cate Ludlam, who led them through the building and into a
narrow alley on the far side.
And there it was, in all its melancholy glory: a vast fenced-in field
of broken and battered headstones. Even the cemetery's sign, made in 1936,
is badly rusted, a relic from another era.
"Welcome to Prospect Cemetery," said Ms. Ludlam, a small, cheerful
woman with steel-gray hair, who tries to get grant money to tend the
cemetery.
Inside, the group spread out and began wandering the lumpy, overgrown
turf. Over the years, vandals have destroyed many headstones, and some of
those that remain are illegible. But others can be read clearly, including
the oldest standing stone, on the grave of Judith Ludlam, an ancestor of
Cate, who died in 1712.
As she wandered among the graves, Ms. Ludlam, who has been in charge of
the cemetery for 14 years, made a fresh discovery: a grave she had given
up for lost in the thick undergrowth. It belongs to Elias Baylis, a
Revolutionary War hero who died after being imprisoned by the British. The
writing on his grave says he "was imprisoned in NY Sept. 1776 and was
released only in time to breathe his last in the arms of his daughter
while crossing Brooklyn Ferry."
Ms. Ludlam also unlocked the door on the cemetery's stone chapel, which
she is trying to renovate after 100 years of disuse. It is called the
Chapel of the Sisters and was built by another of her ancestors, Nicholas
Ludlam, in 1856 after all three of his daughters died young.
Inside, the tourgoers gasped in awe at the rubble and snapped
photographs of the chapel's massive round windows, their stained glass
long since broken. Below one window a faded inscription could be read:
"Weeping may endure for a night, but joy comes in the morning."
It was time to go. Mr. Walsh called out to the group's members,
reminding them that they had a date to see the King Mansion, a house in
Jamaica that once belonged to the colonial political figure Rufus
King.
Mr. Walsh had done it all before, but said he never grew tired of
history.
"It all started with lampposts," he said. "When I was a kid, I took
rides with my parents, and I always liked the posts. That grew into a love
for all those old things around us that rarely get noticed."